Growing Up with Comfort Food

How ‘Kitta’ Continues to Soothe My Soul

I have been lately reflecting on the generic and proliferated term – “Comfort Food.” I couldn’t find something concrete while pondering on the meaning of this phrase that merges two heart-soothing words. It is one of those things we use and agree upon but can’t place or define precisely. However, I will share a personal story that could help explore a sensible meaning and reexamine “growing up with something.” I was wondering what it could look like beyond mere exposure during early childhood, based on my definition of growing up, which I consider a life-long process. Let’s emphasize progression since the sentimental aspect is evident when discussing this subject.

Kitta spread (2023)

In Ethiopia, where I’m from, ‘injera’ is a go-to and almost universal staple everyone considers comfort food. I don’t perceive 'injera' as comfort food because I have had it so often, for so long. It mostly came to me without me seeking it. What I am talking about is even simpler than eating 'injera' with its accompanying stews. This story is about how I “grew up with” another flatbread called ‘Kitta,’ a general term for any lean flatbread. I am talking about a classic, simple recipe emblematic of ‘Habesha’ cuisine. 'Kitta' is a runny grain batter baked on a hot clay griddle or pan. This recipe combines the local cooking fat (ghee) and spice blend of choice - 'Bèrbèré.' These building blocks of the cuisine’s DNA are a divine match. Once the flatbread is ready, smear the ghee and add some 'Bèrbèré' while hot. You rip bite size pieces and wipe extra dip off the plate until done and licking your fingers.

A closer view of a Kitta spread (2023)

I remember eating this as an afternoon snack and an occasional breakfast. A plate to myself and silence to relish chewy and crispy warm 'Kitta' with maybe a cup of tea or milk. Good old times; I request, and it is served. The inspiration for this piece is a result of me not having this comfort food for a long time and recently revisiting this sentimental dish anew. I cook now and have even worked in restaurant kitchens for a while. I am broadening and deepening my culinary knowledge and skills. One would guess I would shy away from the familiar and mundane, but I have been revisiting some forgotten gems. This recipe was one, and some things are changing. First of all, I have become much more mindful of my health, so I have eliminated refined wheat flour from my diet. I now use whole grain flour with every other ingredient constant. I also tend to prefer the easily accessible 'teff' over whole-wheat because it has a deeper nuttiness and less of a berry-like sweetness.

An intimate view of Kitta (2023)

I have been practicing the techniques that yield the ideal output of this simple dish. And, like most simple things, it is not as easy as it looks. 'Kitta' is a tantalizing reward, and I have been perfecting my efforts to my liking. There were plenty of frustrating attempts where I couldn’t nail the flatbread texture because of the batter consistency or how I spread it before baking. Today marks the day that I have become fully satisfied with the result. Ideal batter consistency and perfect griddle heat have given me the right thin and soft texture with snappy, crisp edges. Generous amounts of ghee and not too much 'Bèrbèré' ensure a luxurious, spreadable dip that is velvety and not too runny.

Kitta on a summer morning (2023)

I never leave a bite to spare, even the burnt parts have a distinct smokey flavor I am fond of, and this time I felt a great sense of achievement. I believe I have honored such a valuable heritage and all the hardworking hands that have treated me to this overlooked masterpiece. I have seen my growth and redefined what it means to grow up with something by replicating and even elevating the experience. This is what comfort food ideally inspires one to do. It is one thing to preserve sentiment, another to adapt and tailor to current needs with the essence intact.