Across the Abyss

The Other Side of Langano

Local travel has always been an underrated delight for me growing up in Ethiopia. I tended to glorify international travel more, but the gems scattered in my vicinity will always remain priceless. Lake Langano was among the few places we visited frequently. It is ingrained in so many of my dear memories. We used to stay at a private bungalow by the shore on weekends or for up to a week. It is a family-friendly place where anyone can feel at ease, which made it a popular tourist destination over the years. For those unfamiliar with this destination, Langano is one of the Great East African Rift Valley lakes found beyond Ziway, just next to Lake Abjatta and Lake Shalla. It is roughly 205 kilometers from Addis Ababa and has a diameter of around 15 kilometers. The murky, brown hard water is surrounded by gray sand beaches. It is one of the cleanest lakes despite its possibly off-putting muddy color. What makes it so clean is what makes it brown, not soil but minerals. This mineral concentration makes the water pathogen-free and safe because crocodiles can’t live in it.

Gentle waves on the Lake Langano shore (2023)

Several lodges and resorts have been built along the shores of lake Langano over the past couple of decades. We have paid visits to a few of them and always had a good time. I always used to look at the lake when I was taking in the place after I was done swimming. The vast lake wasn’t as endless as an ocean or big lakes. It wasn’t as daunting because you could see the other side, as distant as it was, and you could tell it was greener. I gazed into the distance, dreamy and curious for so long, wondering what it looked like. It was too inaccessible, so my fascination would lead me to hover over it on a map and not interact with the place any better. I helplessly stared at the abyss whenever I got the chance. I once heard about the government selling land across the lake for investment purposes. Very intriguing but still not promising. One day, as fortune would have it, my partner and I received an invitation from the other side to stay in a relatively unknown small eco-lodge. The invite was great news and somewhat of a personal wish fulfilled for me. Many thanks to Bishangari Lodge for the truly unforgettable stay.

The eco-friendly ‘Tokku’ lake-side cabin at Bishangari Lodge (2023)

We set a date and made our way there, leaving the soulless capital before the crack of dawn. Clear empty roads, a tough and comfortable car, privacy, and a gorgeous sunrise. Does it get any better than this? We reached the familiar side that I have secretly grown tired of. This was the first time making the crossing for all of us, so we had to ask around for directions. After a brief trial and error, we found our route and headed around the southernmost edge of the lake. The arid savanna was testing, and the entryway towards the new road was the dustiest area I had ever passed through. We found another paved road and followed it until we saw a sign by an off-road turn. We took that path too, and the climate started to shift. Bushes gave way to trees, and the beige-looking soil turned into fertile reddish clay soil. The bumpy road is the impression I always had of what the interior of D.R. Congo would look like. I can see the lake shore and now the gate.

The village children and our lovely guide with my partner (2023)

The loudest part of this stay would be the first few minutes of us getting settled after our arrival. I would later realize that the place was quiet all along, and the loudness was all in my head before adjusting to the overwhelming serenity here. We were the only guests for the day and received warm reception amidst ear-deafening silence. Lunch would be ready at our command; we had to freshen up first after all the dust and sweat from the heat. The showers pump out pure spring water sourced nearby and heated by solar power. The housing structures were built out of ‘Kuyisa’ - the local name for termite mound soil which is durable and can last up to a few thousand years. Everything here is eco-friendly and sustainable – a righteous liberal’s dream. I like it for less pompous reasons. I think it is cost-effective and less wasteful too, and I would like to laud the effort put into the renovations. Yes, the whole place was rebuilt, following a fire that destroyed everything in sight. The incident was a deliberate offense carried out by local rebel groups a few years ago. It was very devastating, but the lodge bounced back. We had a great, full-course lunch and were treated like royalty.

The cabana restaurant at Bishangari Lodge (2023)

Everyone here, from the village children who waved and ran to us to the lodge staff, is so friendly and welcoming. It has been so long since I came across simple, down-to-earth people happy to host me and share what they have. The chef was quite a character. He introduced himself so graciously and asked for our names. His charisma was very charming, and despite his relatively old age, the man was very youthful and energetic. He stuck up a conversation with me and started to open up spontaneously. He told me he was from Sudan and had stayed here for decades. I could see the wisdom in his eyes, and he sensed something positive about me, claiming I was a humble and light soul. I was flattered. He divulged a hobby and played a video of him singing on his phone. I wasn’t a record label exec or headhunter, but it felt like my opinion mattered so much at the moment. I was very honored, and I applauded his passion. I knew he was the type of gentleman I could have endless conversations with, but I had to leave at that moment.

'A herd grazing on fields that used to be marshlands (2023)

Just outside the entry gate, I was getting an idea for the landscape when I saw a bus riding the rugged dirt road like a sea wave. I had a glimpse from the other side back when I didn’t know there were people here. We headed to the woods with our entrusted tour guide, who was also a self-taught bird guide. Bird watching is one of those seemingly “boring” activities I knew I would enjoy once I tried it. Things got exciting quickly as we stumbled upon a vast field which we soon learned was marshlands from the excess lake water. I would have loved to see that, but this is quite a sight too. I was spotting birds everywhere, then a monkey and a couple of Olive Baboons casually passed. After a brief walk, we entered the forest and instantly felt the cool shade. Here is an entirely different world where the gigantic old trees whisper their wisdom. We walked past ancient Podocarpus, ‘Kitita,’ ‘Warka,’ ‘Sete,’ and Fig trees. Lots and lots of fig trees with elevated branch networks that looked like suspended roots. This was something out of a movie. After tedious attempts hurling sticks at the sky-high branches, I got the chance to try a fig for the first time.

The lush forests of the East Langano Nature Reserve (2023)

We found the mini-waterfall and took a quick dip, then continued our expedition. I had seen plenty of birds at this point. Honeyguides, Hornbills, Clovers, as well as various Starlings and Sparrows, among other species I can’t identify. I was in awe of how much the place was sprawling with life. And a special reminder of the regenerative abundance of nature came in the form of the spring I mentioned. The same water I showered with a while back drew me to its source. I got low and took a sip, then another one, until I quenched my thirst.

Clear surface of the spring water that supplies Bishangari Lodge (2023)

The thrill of the forest came to a gentle landing when we made our way out via an alternate route and reached the lake shore. This site also used to be a swamp. Since it’s not a beach, but rather wet minerally soil, it is the ideal breeding ground for the next group of wildlife on my bucket list – water birds. It’s the golden hour, and our timing couldn’t have been better. It was feeding time. Flocks of Egyptian geese, Herons, Great White Egrets, Pelicans, and solitary African Fish Eagles were all over the coast, so beautifully lit by the warm retreating sun. We made it back to the lodge in time and caught a breathtaking sunset, then watched the water and sky turn dark.

Dusk view of the East Langano Nature Reserve by the lake shore (2023)

Nighttime is pitch black when you are this remote, you feel the isolation more, and the silence becomes louder. All you hear during such times are the crashing waves, crickets chirping, and the occasional animal calls from the forest. Your heart beats slower, and conversations take on an intimate whispering mood. The tranquility of the place is unmatched. If the world had to end most peacefully, such nights would be viable candidates. We had a worthwhile day well-spent together doing what we love. This has to be our favorite trip together so far, with lots more to come. The chef caught up with us once more and gave us his blessing, complimenting our union. He shared some of the magic this place is gifted with. He told us some come here and cry. I am honored to be among the few who get to visit the unknown side; I will never forget this. I have finally made it across the abyss.

Sun setting over Lake Langano (2023)