Backpacking Across the Mountains of Shewa

Ankober to Debre Sina

Backpacking is a physically demanding activity involving hiking and carrying necessary gear, sometimes food, for an extended trip. This would be my first time backpacking, and I was last to board the bus after being picked up near the northern A2 highway exit via Legetafo. I requested the van’s passenger seat, and it was saved for me. I hopped in and began to take in the distant views of the countryside just beyond the city area. It was a beautiful Friday morning, the perfect time to escape the city chaos. We passed by plenty of schoolchildren and workers heading into the city while we went in the opposite direction. We drove by the old settlement of Sendafa, then Aleltu and Sheno, crossing multiple checkpoints (both reasonable and unreasonable), with officers inquiring about our intentions and destination. We started to get a grip of the landscape beyond here and ventured further into Northern Shewa. The pace of life began to slow down the longer we drove. It was time for lunch, so we stopped by Debre Birhan.

Ankober, North Shewa (2022)

Our adventure hadn’t begun yet, but the scenery started to envelop us with its charms. One of our tires had an issue. We repaired it instantly and were off to Ankober. Everyone hopped off the van with all packed items and maximum energy – it's time! We began our trail downhill towards an area called ‘fuafuate’ (waterfalls) to get warmed up. I started the arduous trek by hearing about how prior leadership used force to forge the trails we were taking. We passed by fertile lands full of broad beans and grains, flowers and trees of all sizes and ages. These are vast farms and pastures where people live in harmony and communal stewardship towards their land. The animals are content, and the children are joyous at any time. They have the autonomy and security to go vast distances without guardians. They hold eye contact more than the adults and tell their names without hesitation.

A group of children at the backpacking starting point, Ankober (2022)

Our first break was at a small neighborhood in ‘Temke’ at the bottom of what seemed like a bowl-shaped paradise. Territorial terms are skewed and somewhat magnified here. A village is called a town, a town is called a city, and a district is called a country. Talk about scope and definitions, huh? It can make you feel like you are backpacking cross-country, coupled with the vastness. There is a calming effect when isolated by jagged terrain where everyone is doing their daily chores and leading a simple life. The bright and playful people offered us snacks and drinks and kept us company as we enjoyed a view of changing weather. Half the sky had bright clouds on ocean-blue skies, and the other half was darkening with ominous clouds that could be a storm. It was time to leave, so we said our thank yous and goodbyes.

Panoramic view of a mountain village in North Shewa (2022)

We went up the next mountain with dense forest coverage and testing slopes. It was breathtaking inside the woods, home to old trees, shrubs, and rocks the size of huts. This part was the most challenging so far; half of us were out of shape and tested to our limits by the steepness. After all the self-doubt and regretful questions, we reached our first campsite, rewarded with a well-earned view. We peaked at the summit at the golden hour, welcomed by a panoramic view of the golden sunset and peach-colored clouds with shadows tinted with all shades of blue and violet. It started to get chilly as darkness encroached on us; the winds blew in all directions and robbed the unguarded of precious body heat with each breeze. We gathered around a bonfire after setting up our tents and having dinner. The moon and stars started to glow brighter, and temperatures drastically dropped as day gave way to night. I was appropriately dressed, and despite the roaring winds, I was in and out of deep sleep for almost nine hours.

Morning view from a campsite in the mountains of North Shewa (2022)

Dawn was upon us, and like all cold nights, the last one inevitably passed. Some slept like a baby through winter, while others suffered. Regardless of how well we rested, we were all embarking on the same mission for a full day this time. I had planned to catch a sunrise before leaving, but that was impossible from where we camped because there was a mountain blocking our view. I should’ve saved my energy for later, but this was worth it. I went up the hurdle, and there was my prize. At the perfect time and place, the young and rising sun flashed its rays into my eyes just before heading into a floating train of clouds. The light was diffused from then on, and the sun tried shooting some rays through the clouds, but the scene was still unbelievable. I had stumbled upon a village where some early risers had begun their days and exchanged greetings followed by small talk. I walked further into the barley fields waiting for direct sunlight again. I spotted up to four layers of mountain chains fading into the horizon with darkening blue shades. I turned and spotted a vulture gracefully gliding mid-air like a watch guard amidst loose, dark gray clouds. Every step taken was worth it, but I had to return to the clan.

Morning sight of a mountain top village in North Shewa (2022)

After a quick breakfast and a slightly late start, we hiked down the face of the same mountain we had climbed the previous day. There was growing confidence following the last challenge. Team chemistry was also helping lift our spirits as we learned more about each other. Temperatures rose as soon as the sun peeked at us from above the nearest peak. You would expect the landscape to become familiar after a while, but it is quite the contrary. Every twist and turn reveals more spectacles that overwhelm the eyes in their varied transitioning beauty. There was such varied terrain it looked like a mosaic of patched fields with a charming off-set order. It sometimes looks like the rice paddy fields of Indonesia or tea fields in Sri Lanka. Cattle herders and shepherds, along with their livestock, enjoyed their boundless resting and grazing spots. It was something out of a fairytale as we continued our quest for hours, seeing multiple streams, small churches, and wooden bridges as we journeyed along the side of the hills.

Panoramic view of mountain top villages in North Shewa (2022)

There are spectacular vistas when looking up and down below from wherever we were. We stopped at a small village for lunch, treated by a dear old lady and her family, who served us what food they had for that day. They gave us directions to reach our final destination quickest. After trading a few stories and receiving our well-wishes, we were off to another forest-covered mountain top.

Panoramic view of the mountain tops in North Shewa (2022)

‘Wof Washa’ literally translates to “Bird Cave.” It was aptly named because one hears bird echoes from a distance. This enchanted forest seems like no one has ever set foot in it. It is hard to find trails to follow, but we made it to the top of this mountain, thinking it was enough for today. Little did we know, there awaited an even longer trek downhill, deeper into the heart of the forest. We continued trekking into ‘Wof Washa,’ abundant with wildlife and beautified with warm sunlight coming from the side. It becomes hard to tell whether this is a tropical jungle suspended in high elevation. We crossed more streams, hurdled fallen trees, and reached the end of the forest with weary bodies. The weight of our bags on our shoulders and the load on our feet made us somewhat cranky when we reached what we thought was our campsite.

Forgotten Vistas 3 (2022)

A kind gentleman in charge of keeping peace in the area offered to host us all for the night. Exhausted and out of words, we accepted his kind invitation due to his sincerity and concern for our well-being had we stayed out in the wilderness. His warm home and hospitable family took good care of us. It was a long day, and some of us lacked the energy to eat dinner. We celebrated our milestone and went to sleep.

Dry waterway trail in evergreen forests, North Shewa (2022)

The final day awaits us with the easiest leg of our journey ahead. Having woken up a bit late this time, I went to where the sun shone to warm up and enjoy a different view. I came across a frail-looking man who had heard about the foreign guests and took some interest in me. He struck up a conversation and told me some legends about the forest we went through the previous day. He told me about a local lodge near completion that got burnt down by bandits. It was a tragic ending to a promising project. It is more unfortunate since the locals are very open to hosting visitors. He even mentioned how he and others were offered to relocate to other lands by a socialist regime that ended up wiping out those who accepted the offer once they were displaced from their home. He felt sympathy for the unlucky but pride in choosing not to be uprooted. The latest ethnic civil war had the offensive side cease their invasion here. He showed me his home and farm plot and then wished me well. We said our goodbyes and I was back where we spent the night.

Village in the mountains of North Shewa (2022)

We charged up with a quick breakfast and set off around another mountain. There were yet more scenic views and calmer streams flowing across our path. Flatter farmlands, corn plantations, and occasional fruit trees revealed themselves as the gentle sun climbed the horizon. We were almost there, and the next village was the assurance we needed. We heard the van would come here. What a relief that was, time for the final break. We waited a long while and enjoyed our snacks, conversations, and volleyball. The only option we had was to hitch a ride on a load truck headed in the same direction. It would be a thrilling experience as we loaded our gear in the back and all climbed in. The road was bumpy. We could fly off the top unless we held tight. The truck reached its stop, and we hopped off right in front of a local elementary school. Is anyone up for more volleyball? Our van arrived not too long after. We drove to Debre Sina and stopped to pick up some snacks and drinks from the Sunday market. We drove higher into the mountains and away for good this time, through the tunnels and past the landscape.

Sunday market, Debre Sina (2022)